Ukraine

Chernobyl: Inside the Exclusion Zone

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We pull up to the gates of the “Zone of Alienation,” a 30-kilometer exclusion zone surrounding the site of the devastating nuclear disaster of Chernobyl power plant. Even though they opened the zone to tourists for the first time in 2011, they closed it again in the beginning of June. We are the only group of tourists who are allowed to access the site this month. This alone gives me an uneasy feeling. Before we are permitted to proceed into the zone, we are marched out of the bus and wait for the military guards to confirm our identity. They give us all a once-over. No bare skin allowed around the site’s continuously leaking radiation.

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Exploring the Local Flavor: Two Ukrainian Restaurants in Odessa

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Perched on the edge of the Black Sea, Ukraine’s third largest city exudes a vibrant, resort-town atmosphere. Odessa is famous for its sandy beaches and European-style architecture. Summertime is clearly the best time to visit to soak up the holiday vibe. Often referred to as the “Pearl of the Black Sea,” the city’s boulevards and parks are filled with street-side vendors, brass bands and ribbon-clad pony rides. The heart of Odessa is the pedestrian-only stretch of Deribasovskaya Street, lined with shops, outdoor cafes and bars. Read more

Where to Eat the Best Local Food in Kiev, Ukraine

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Visiting Kiev, Ukraine is like being immersed in a real-life fairy tale. As I explore, I marvel at the city’s famous, towering gold-domed cathedrals. I stare at a sculpted menagerie of frogs, mermaids and other beasts decorating the bizarre “House with Chimeras.” I cover my head and descend by candlelight into the holy Orthodox crypts of the Lavra monastery. I lose myself in elaborate shopping mazes: the underground passages used by pedestrians to cross busy streets. Read more

Ukraine’s Beloved Borscht: A Vision in Red

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Borscht is a Beautiful Thing

This brilliantly hued, hearty beetroot soup is the culinary staple of Ukraine. Every local establishment serves it and everyone eats it, at every meal. It’s the first food in Kiev I learned to properly pronounce, “Borscht Ukrainsky!” though smetana, or “sour cream” wasn’t far behind. In Ukraine, borscht is universal, though its preparation is deeply personal, reflecting upon individual chefs, their ingredients and the changing seasons. From my first taste of one chef’s distinctive red broth (which happened to be swimming with savory ham), I was hooked. Below, a brief photo essay in ruby red: a journey through the wonderful world of Ukrainian borscht. Read more

Cheap Eats in Ukraine: Delicious Cafeteria Style Dining

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Ukraine is an Eastern European food mecca, a country brimming with distinct flavors: rich broths, hearty meat dishes and a whole lot of vodka. But when you want to rub shoulders with the locals for a traditional meal that won’t break the bank, there’s one dining option that offers infinite possibilities: cafeteria-style eateries. These are Ukraine’s answer to fast food, but there’s nothing “fast” about the preparation of dozens of these national dishes offered up daily, buffet-style. For first-timers to Ukraine unsure of their communication skills, cafeterias are perfect for practicing the universal point-and-smile “language” technique. Popular with students, businesspeople and budget-conscious travelers in the know, these local hotspots are well worth a visit. Read more